Watering a garden, no matter what its size, is traditionally done by a hand-held can or hose. This is time-consuming and laborious, however, other methods are readily available today.

The simplest, non-manual irrigation system is a perforated hose, passing across a planted area or over pots on a roof, which when turned on produces a gentle trickle of water. A hose can, of course, be laid when a garden has been fully constructed.

At the other end of the scale, there is a sophisticated grid system of pipes that can be sunk just below ground surface at an early stage of garden planning. This has counter-sunk nozzles, with a metal recess above each at ground level. When the system is switched on, the pressure of water pushes the nozzles just above ground level to release a spray, the coverage from one nozzle reaching that of the next to soak the whole area equally. On switching off, the nozzles sink down – a facility that is particularly useful on a lawn since it allows even mowing of the area. These systems can be timed to switch on and off automatically, much as a central heating does.

Between these two extremes of irrigation system come water arms which sweep water to-and-fro across an area to a distance determined by the pressure which drives them.

It is usually necessary to bury electric cables for outside lighting under, or possibly around, structural elements before the garden plan is completed to avoid subsequent disruption.

Gardens need electricity for lighting, and to power equipment such as a fountain or a swimming-pool filtration plant. Power is also needed in the greenhouse, for an electric saw in the workshop and, if you have an electric mower, an outside socket is useful at a distance from the house to avoid an inconvenient length of cable.

All cables should be located along the bottom of a wall, or be contained within protective piping and buried at a level below that likely to be pierced by cultivation tools. Cables need full external-type insulation, with outlet sockets having screw caps and sited above the height at which a small child could reach them.

When planning cables and lighting points to entrance paths, ensure that you have places for low lights at any changes of level and that you leave no dark corners in areas you are likely to use at night.

It worth investing some time and money to achieve really effective lighting, for not only does it allow you to enjoy a view of your garden from inside during winter evenings but it is also a worthwhile burglar deterrent.