- 1). Put your boat inside of the boathouse (if making a homemade boat hoist). Tie the boat off to the piers located on all four corners of the boathouse. Measure from the bow's point to the transom, following along the central line. Measure among the rafters, keeping your first measurement in mind, to determine which two rafters you can hang the falls from (one will be at the front of the boathouse and one will be at the back). Choose a nylon rope that is at least 14 times longer than the longest length of the rafter and make a loop in the middle of the rope.
- 2). Wrap the left side of the rope (before the loop) around the rafter three times. The loop should remain beside the rafter. Do the same with the right side of the rope. Tie the rope ends together tightly. Suspend the static block using the loop you made on the rope. Lift and lower the conveyable block until it reaches the water surface.
- 3). Drill a pilot hole on the bow of the boat (it should be as close to the bow as possible) for the lifting ring. Drill a second pilot hole on the transom, lining the hole up to the boat's central line. Attach lifting rings to the pre-drilled holes. Have a helper stand on the boat and lower the conveyable block towards the him or her. Have your helper hook the block and tackle (also referred to as the falls) to the front and backside lifting rings. Hoist, making sure to maintain the level of the boat. Fasten the lines to a solid area, such as a permanent fixture. This process can be performed in reverse in order to lower the boat.
- 1). Cut the thread ends off two,10-foot steel water pipes that are 2 inches in diameter (available at your local home improvement store) using an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel to create an engine or a bike hoist. Slightly flatten what will be the bottom ends of the pipes using a sledge hammer before welding the pipes to the feet. Sand around the area that will be welded. Cut 2 feet from a third pipe (also 2 inches in diameter) that are 4 feet in length. Weld the sanded and flattened bottom of one pipe to the center of one 4-inch foot. Repeat with the second pipe and foot. Weld a large piece of angle steel assembly to the top of each pipe, creating a corner bracket for securing the cross board.
- 2). Cut two pieces of pipe that is 1 inch in diameter to be 4 feet in length. Cut two more pieces of 1-inch pipe that is 3 feet in length. Weld the 4-inch pipe just below where your cross brace will sit to one frame pipe for stability. Weld a 3-inch pipe from the unsecured side of the 4-foot pipe to a lower position on the frame pipe at a 90-degree angle, creating a brace for the cross brace. Repeat this process for the opposite side. Weld the outsides of two u-shaped pieces of rebar together to create a paperclip-like piece of metal. Cut a 4-inch diameter piece of pipe to be approximately six inches in length. Cut the pipe piece in half length-wise. Weld the outside curved part of the half circle to the inside of one curved end of the u-shaped rebar.
- 3). Slide the welded rebar over a 10-foot board that is approximately 2 inches or more thick; the half circle will sit on what will be top part of the 10-foot board. Bolt the 10-foot board (with the paperclip-like piece of rebar) to each corner bracket (this can be assembled on-site if necessary). Attach a 1-ton rated chain hoist to the welded rebar by hooking it onto the bottom.
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