Molding the Face

• 1). Cover your model in a makeup cape to protect the clothing. Pull long hair back into a ponytail.
  
  
• 2). Tear plaster bandages into 6-inch strips.
  
  
• 3). Rub petroleum jelly into the model's eyebrows and eyelashes to keep the alginate from bonding.
  
  
• 4). Put 1 lb. of alginate powder into a mixing bowl.
  
  
• 5). Mix cool water into the alginate until it forms a thick paste.
  
  
• 6). Spread the alginate over your model's face, taking special care to fill the eye sockets and the sides of the nostrils. Check to ensure the nostrils themselves stay clear for breathing. Do not extend the alginate past the hairline and sideburns.
  
  
• 7). Allow the alginate to stiffen. This process usually takes five to eight minutes.
  
  
• 8). Dip plaster bandages into a bowl of warm water, and smooth them onto the alginate. You want three full layers of overlapping bandages. Once again, do not cover the nostrils.
  
  
• 9). Allow the bandages to harden into a rigid shell, which will help the flexible alginate keep its shape.
  
  
• 10
  
  Have the model wiggle his face to break the seal, then pull the alginate cast off his face.
  
  
• 11
  
  Mix a small batch of alginate and water, then use it to plug the nostril holes. Allow it to stiffen.
  
  

Creating a Plaster Mold

• 1). Cut apart a 1-lb. block of hard oil-based clay into small chunks.
  
  
• 2). Place the clay chunks into a crock pot or double boiler and melt them, stirring regularly.
  
  
• 3). Brush a 1/2-inch layer of clay into the alginate mold with a cheap paintbrush, and allow it to harden.
  
  
• 4). Remove the clay face from the mold, and set it on a work table.
  
  
• 5). Spray the clay face with two coats of acrylic enamel spray to seal the surface, then apply two coats of dulling spray to help the plaster spread evenly.
  
  
• 6). Mix a batch of plaster with water in a bucket.
  
  
• 7). Brush a 1/4-inch layer of plaster onto the clay face, working it into all the nooks and crannies. Allow the plaster to harden until you can no longer scratch it with your fingernail.
  
  
• 8). Mix another batch of plaster, this one with the consistency of peanut butter.
  
  
• 9). Spread the plaster over the first layer, bringing the total mold thickness to 1 inch.
  
  
• 10
  
  Allow the plaster to harden overnight.
  
  
• 11
  
  Peel the clay face out of the plaster mold. Scrub out any remaining clay residue with lighter fluid and a toothbrush.
  
  

Making the Mask

• 1). Fill the plaster mold with liquid latex.
  
  
• 2). Cover the mold with plastic wrap, and let it sit for one hour. A skin of latex will form against the sides of the mold.
  
  
• 3). Pour the remaining latex back into the container, and allow the material remaining in the mold to dry.
  
  
• 4). Peel the latex mask out of the mold. It will be a nearly perfect replica of the model's face, down to skin pores.
  
  
• 5). Cut out eye and nostril holes and the rough edges of the mask with a sharp pair of scissors. Punch a hole in the sides, and use a piece of string to tie the mask in place.
  
  
• 6). Paint the mask with flesh-colored paint designed for use on latex. The color should match your model's skin tone.